Often imitated and often duplicated, welcome to the legendary Vintager Straps FAQ page
Straps are measured in millimeters. You need to know two dimensions: Width and length.
Width: Click here for Panerai lug width chart and lug width measuring suggestions.
Width is expressed like this: 24/22 (24mm wide by 22mm wide). The first number is the width of the strap between the lugs of the watch. The second number is the width of the strap at the buckle. A "straight" strap is one that is the same width at the lugs and the buckle, i.e 24/24. A "tapered" strap is one that tapers in width from the lugs to the buckle, i.e 24/22. I prefer and recommend straight straps, but I do offer tapered widths on all my regular straps. If you're not sure what width strap your watch uses or whether a straight or tapered strap is more appropriate for your needs just email Micah and we'll sort it out.
Length: Length is expressed like this: 125/75. The first number (125) is the length in millimeters of the tongue side of the strap. The second number (75) is the length in millimeters of the buckle side.
What length strap should I get? My strap length suggestions are based on wrist size. Wrap a piece of string around your wrist, mark the string where it crosses itself, lay it flat on a table and measure the distance between the marks. This is your wrist size.
Strap length is all personal preference, there is no "right" or "wrong". A length that I consider "too short" you might consider to be "just right". In general people usually start out preferring shorter straps and over time begin to gravitate towards longer straps. For instance, in the table below for my wrist size of 7.75" I suggest 140/90 but I personally never wear anything shorter than 145/95 because I prefer a little more tail and to have the buckle well off center on my wrist. The table below is an excellent place to start, but don't let it be your bible. Strap length is an art and as your tastes change your idea of what looks "just right" will probably change too.
Also, you can't use OEM straps for length comparison, my straps fit very differently. If you have a non-padded strap that's about 4mm thick you can use that as a rough estimate for length, but generally wrist size is the best way to determine what length will work best with my straps.
Lastly, if you have any doubt about which length to get... always go longer!
For smaller watches (non-Panerai sized watches) I suggest adding at least 5mm to both measurements.
Strap length suggestions:
- 6.0" - 6.40" (15cm - 15.9cm) = 125/75
- 6.50" - 6.9" (16.0cm - 17.5cm) = 130/80
- 7.0" - 7.4" (17.8cm - 18.8cm) = 135/85
- 7.5" - 7.9" (19.0cm - 20cm) = 140/90
- 8.0" - 8.4" (20.1cm - 21.3cm) = 145/95
- 8.5" - 9.0" (21.6cm - 23cm) = 150/100
If your wrist size is on the cusp you can go either way depending on preference. For instance, if your wrist is 6.9" you can go with 130/80 for a more conservative look (less tail, centered buckle) or you could go up to 135/85 for a longer look (more tail, buckle over to the side more). If you're unsure... always go longer!
Click here for the Panerai lug width chart
Every one of my handmade watch straps is made to your custom specifications. When ordering you will be selecting: Buckle type/finish, length, width, stitching color, hole shape, tubes yes/no (no unless your watch is a Luminor or 1950 Panerai)
My straps are mostly around 4mm thick. Most straps will indicate average thickness right on their description page.
"To-the-MM" lengths are not practical; leather is a "living" medium, as I work with it and as you wear it it changes. Because of this it's impossible for me to guarantee precise lengths. Even if I could it would change the first time you put it on. I will strive to match your lengths, but I urge you to order rounded lengths such as 140/90, which is what a length like 137/88 will end up being anyways.
If your watch is a Luminor or 1950 style Panerai (with solid lugs that use a screw or the newer pin system) yes, your strap needs tubes. To have these included with your strap simply select "Yes tubes" from the dropdown menu when you get to that section of placing your order.
Adding tubes does not change the price of your strap. Leaving tubes out of your strap when you don't need them saves me money and helps me stay in business :-)
As long as your watch uses a normal spring bar or screw-in lug mounting system and has a normal two lug shape, I can make a strap for it.
If your watch uses an unconventional mounting system, requires a complicated custom shape at the lugs or uses an integrated bolster or other mounting piece that is incorporated into the strap I can't make a strap for it.
To see a list and pictures of some of the many brands I've made straps for, click here.
Not all straps are compatible with all watches, if you have any questions please click here to email Micah and we can discuss your specific needs.
I strive to make straps that are rugged and historic in style. Even my Fine Leather straps are made in a vintage style; a bit thicker with thick thread and oozing hand-made style. I'm not saying you can't wear my straps in dressy situations, but if you're looking for a purely "dress strap" this ain't the place to get it.
I can box stitch (with stitching across the strap at the lugs in addition to around the perimeter of the strap) any strap, just email me after you order and let me know.
I don't make imitations or copies of other straps, my straps are my own and frankly I'd be embarrassed to duplicate someone else's work. Rather than trying to duplicate another strap I urge you to instead peruse my website and see if anything I make catches your interest.
When you order a strap you will be able to choose the type and finish of buckle you want. To see the buckles I offer click here.
I don't make straps for deployant buckles, which generally require specific thicknesses I can't accommodate. I've seen deployant buckles mounted on some of my straps but I can't comment on which ones or guarantee it will work for you.
I can make your strap very thin at the lugs and extra wide so that it might curve, but I can't build a curve into the lug ends of straps.
Rather than moving the holes around the proper way to fit a strap is to order the correct length buckle side, which will put the buckle in the hole you want. I always start the holes at 50mm from the lug edge of the strap unless you provide specific instructions otherwise.
I intentionally make straps just a little bit "too wide" where they attach to the watch and at the buckle. This is to provide a firm, positive fit and also to help prevent the strap from shrinking over time to where it's no longer wide enough at the lugs and buckle. If you give the lug/buckle end of the strap a firm squeeze you should be able to get it onto your watch or buckle. If it just won't go, please Email Micah and let me know.
I ship to anywhere in the world with a physical address.
Orders of $60 or more ship for free, worldwide. Orders under $60 pay actual shipping costs, calculated at checkout.
Domestic shipping usually takes 3 to 7 days. International shipping takes 7 to 21 days, but can take even longer if there are issues with customs.
Tracking information is provided in the shipping confirmation email sent when your order ships.
Shipping via these services is actual cost +$25 in the USA and $150 international. These services are rarely safer or faster than the free shipping I offer.
I have no control over your country's tax rates. All I can offer is that if upon receipt of your order you are charged an unusually high duty or tax I will reimburse you for it.
- Italy - Italian postal service tends to lose packages
- Middle East - Shipments can take up to 5 weeks to arrive
- Philippines - Frequent and long delays in customs
Please check on the homepage here (opens in a new window), right under the logo at the top of the page you will see the current turnaround time.
Please check the Returns and Guarantee page here.
Many strap makers are "weekenders", people doing this as a fun hobby or a way to make a few extra bucks, and many others are "retailers", people who put their names on straps they didn't personally make and often didn't even see prior to mailing them. I, on the other hand, am a full-time custom strap maker; your strap is completely made by me and is my livelihood, your order feeds my family. Because of this I care about the creation of your strap in a way that no weekender or retailer ever could. Every order is personal for me, from the first email you send to the postage on your outgoing package every step of the way it's my hands doing the work, my skill crafting the strap and my integrity and reputation on the line. I do it this way for a reason: I have everything to lose if you're not happy with your order, which ensures that I'm highly motivated to do whatever it takes to make certain you are satisfied.
Absolutely! Just go to the Reviews Page here for links to many reviews of my work.
Click on the picture of any strap you'd like, fill out the details and click "Add To Cart". Verify your strap details and enter your shipping information and payment information. You are not committed to buying a strap until you have completed payment.
Yes, I accept all major credit cards as well as PayPal and Apple Pay.
I do. Strap making is my full time profession, your straps are my living. I also designed and maintain this website, including picture taking.
Yes I do. Every strap is handmade to order by me. I am a one-man operation, no employees. Well, my wife sometimes takes stuff to the post office, but other than that it's just me.
A strap maker personally hand makes your strap and puts his own name on the line with every order. A strap retailer is a middle man who relays your order to the actual strap maker(s), or more often simply pre-orders thousands of straps from an overseas factory, putting their names on straps they didn't make and in some cases might never even see or inspect.
If you've ordered a few straps from me shoot me an email and we can discuss it :-)
I'm a one-man operation so to make your strap sooner I'd have to make someone else's strap later, the only fair option is for everyone to wait their turn.
Due to time constraints and other concerns I do not take pictures of straps "in progress". I do, however, send a picture of your completed strap via email the day it's done.
I prefer to do all communication via email so that I have a record of what we've discussed, in fact you can email me right now if you want.
Because people's tastes change I make every strap exactly as it's ordered: If no special instructions are provided with an order I don't apply any. I do have records of every order, if you need help remembering previous details email Micah and I'll let you know what we did last time.
Leather is resilient and can handle getting wet, but soaking straps in water is not recommended as it can cause the strap to shrink and/or dry out over time. If you plan on getting your strap wet regularly use a good quality leather lotion or oil to maintain the oils of the leather. Be sure to spot test on the BACK of the strap to see how the lotion will effect the color of the strap, it usually darkens it.
99% of people who order a strap never mention what kind of watch it's for, which is fine with me. As a watch collector it's my opinion that fakes mock and injure the industry and hobby I so deeply love and that, in fact, puts food on my family's table. If you email me asking for suggestions about which strap will look best on your "replica" my answer is "Sorry, I don't make straps for fakes."
As much as I'd like to offer pictures of every conceivable combination I can't do it. If there's not a picture of it on my website then I don't have a picture of it.
Free strap cards are good for Fine Leather straps only and can't be used in whole or in part for any other strap such as Mauser, Canvas, etc.
I was a watch nut long before I started making straps and to this day watches are the central hobby and passion in my life. I regularly attend get together's all over the country and have met many watch collectors and generally great people thanks to my passion for fine watches.
As a watch collector I spent several years buying straps myself. Several of the straps I'd paid hundreds of dollars for fell far short of my expectations, and I thought "Well I bet I could make a better strap than this." Turns out I was right :-)
I've spent many years and many thousands of dollars getting this all together and figuring out the literally hundreds of little details that go into making a truly quality strap. I appreciate your desire to make straps and I encourage you to DO IT. You can find out everything you need to know using these steps:
- Necessity (the mother of invention)
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
- More practice
Did I mention more practice? Have fun!